Jozie - 12 Decades Hotel, Maboneng and the Kitchen Fairy Caterers

My adventures since leaving Namibia have changed, visiting Jozie (Johannesburg, South Africa) and now Rwanda, the experiences are centered more on people and the environs rather than wild animals. In Jozie, I stayed at the 12 Decades Art Hotel, nestled in the urban revival Maboneng district.

Those who know me well, understand that for me there is a deep connection with gritty urban areas that are vibrantly occupied by the hip artistic types whose currency is creative energy, who offer glimpses into that very energy and determination, that feeds their souls.

Allen Bechky and I had stumbled upon 12 decades during our brief visit to Maboneng and it's Sunday market, "Art on Main" when we arrived at the beginning of May, and we were staying in a luxury guest house in a neighborhood so diametrically opposite. Ironically, we heard about Art on Main, after chatting with the gracious staff. Warren, the junior manager of the Residence Hotel, a very lovely, warm and charming, albeit high end luxury experience,  emphatically recommended we visit the Sunday market at Art on Main in the urban revival Maboneng District and explore the surrounding blocks for delicious food stalls and unique handicrafts.
He emphasized that it was an area that locals enjoyed, with Jozie families streaming in to spend the day hanging out and walking around taking in the atmosphere. Kudos to Warren, as he was spot on in recommending this unique experience to us. Everywhere one looked there were young locals and congregations of friends, fashionably dressed, strolling in the streets and sprawling on the sidewalks, taking selfies in front of fabulous street art, checking out the wares and creative offerings of the street vendors. 

Street offerings ranging from our friend selling second hand "vintage" clothing from her tiny car, to young smiling men from Mozambique, beading wires into lions, hippos, cows, owls and other colorful creatures.

As I related in a previous post, when we stopped to inquire about rooms at 12 decades, Sydney, the sole receptionist, befriended us and gave us the FULL tour of each of the rooms, as well as the panoramic and introspective views of the surrounding area from the penthouse rooftop above the 7th floor hotel level.

The mixed use 7 story building has a constant stream of happenings and people, from apartment residents, office workers, nightclub acts, natural living exposition, theater and cafe patrons...and more.

I encountered artists, trannies, young women entrepreneurs making baby blankets and without exception each person was friendly, curious about why I was there, often thinking I lived there, as do many creative people from all over South Africa and the world,

Of course, my friend, "the Ambassador of Happy", Buzzie, opened their hearts and smiles. It's true, when you are smiling, the whole world smiles with you.

 The Maboneng area hosts street art at every turn, one that Allen and I missed the first time we visited is this interactive chalkboard installation that allows anyone to state their bucket list wish

... before I die I want to ....

I added two wishes to the hundreds of chalkboard entries
 ...before I die I want to be an American African
... before I die I want to BEE Buzzie (always happy and smiling)

 Both strong sentiments that this trip has curated.

 Before I die, I want to be.... What would you write?

 Just write the first thing that comes into your thoughts.

Inside the Art on Main structure itself, a revitalized factory building, the bottom floor houses the food and beverages stalls.

Pop ups, caterers and established brick and mortar restaurants are able to rent stall space for the equivalent of about 35-50 U.S. for the day. This time, after sampling only the leftover crusty bits, that the Paella Lady graciously gifted us last month as they were closing  I managed to chat with the young Paella Vendor, and gave her the Caterbuzz spiel as well.

She and her husband started the business about 4 years ago and the market has been instrumental in their growth. They cater and also do festivals, using two oversized paella pans, the aroma of the garlic and fresh thyme taunts the craft vendors on the second floor as they set up their displays as the market first comes to life around 9:30-10 am every Sunday.

I had discovered Canteen, a permanent daily back and mortar restaurant, the morning before, and reveled in my scrumptious and unique to me, breakfast offering in the then quiet and nearly deserted courtyard dining and walkway area of Art on Main complex.

What of this breakfast you ask? For sure, a concept that would translate well to catering. Two thin and uber crispy white potato pancakes, sandwiches with charred sweet cherry tomatoes, cut in half still intact, but blistered under high heat, topped with crispy bacon and drenched in a smooth and creamy definitively house made cheddar cheese sauce, served with a sliced of crispy ciabatta toast to mop up every last drop of the velvety cheese sauce from the plate.

 If I could have licked the plate clean discretely, trust me, I would have, that's how delicious this breakfast rendition was...and not an egg in sight, which after 30 days 2-4 eggs daily was a blissful change in and of itself!

Ok, I confess, this was a cheat on my thus far very strict diabetic meal plan, but like the finest and most sophisticated chocolate mousse cake, well worth every scrumptious bite!

A large cup of latte with a side of ice cubes, completed this Ab Fab sunny morning on e veranda experience!!

Other guests strolled in around 10 am, and I wandered off to explore a few of the boutiques that were just opening up, before heading back to the 12 decades lobby to meet up with my South African catering buddy Debbie for a day of networking and getting to know each other in person after many many facebook and pm
(private message) encounters.

 Debbie's family includes her charming mum, Mary, whose smile and hugs made me instantly welcome, Ttchiamo, her adorable, very verbal foster daughter, and a variety of staff and friends of all shapes, ages and sizes, who fill her home with earthy warmth, love and laughter, amid hard work and intertwined lives.

 I got to meet Morris and Gertie, visiting caterers from Capetown who were working with Debbie and her kitchen fairy team on prep for the next day's film production small plates cocktail reception event. Of course tastes and explanations of the delicious fruity spiced lamb tagine, butter curry chicken, fondant potato and Preto chicken sliders found their way onto a tray and into my happy tummy.

Such a treat to get to meet both Debbie's personal and work family! We took a short ride to the rosewood mall, and Mary treated us all to a refreshing cafe lunch on the patio of a busy restaurant in the middle of the mall. Ttchiamo ( pronounced chee - amo... Rather like the italian for I love you) was a model of polite behavior mixed with exuberant childlike wonder.

She devoured her Mac and Cheese, which she immediately knew she wanted, as she informed us that her tummy was hungry! I retrieved some of the small gifts I had brought from NYC for each of them and the immediate hit of the day was the mini pink bottle of bubbles, Ttchiamo having finished her meal nicely, delighted in chasing the bubbles across the steps of the plaza right next to our table and was soon joined by another littler boy who looked up at her with wonder and admiration.

 Debbie gently reminded Ttchiamo that "sharing is caring" and they both enjoyed blowing and chasing bubbles...entranced by the temporary wonder of the simplest joys.

Tales of the Tigress floating down the Okavango Delta in Botswana, Africa

On our last morning in the lovely Camp Okavango, Camp O, as it's fondly nick named, Our group were given the choice to do another foot safari or go back on the Delta for a Mokoro canoe safari. I choose to go back to the Delta, for various reasons... Other than I was not really up to further trekking on foot, more importantly I had fallen in love with the beauty of the reeds and the slow pace of gliding through the waterway brimming with breathtaking flowers and fauna.  I was the solo guest on this particular morning's journey, which was a bonus for me!

So off we went, just me, Buzzie and our guide GB paddling quietly through the reeds, propelling the boat forward like a Venetian Gondolier, both of us enjoying the morning sun, mesmerized by reflections on the glass like still waters and the spectacular aura of the surrounding environment.

My Deserts and Deltas Safari guide GB from Camp O, told me with a twinkle in his eye, that I was now Lisa, Queen of the Delta as we glided through the world's largest inland water system and he graciously anointed me with a Okavango "lei" he handily created for me from a African white water lily plucked from the Delta... GB patiently showed me how to make the necklace by peeling back the stems, quietly explaining how it was his father who had taught him this craft and imparted so much knowledge about their natural surroundings, as a child growing up here on the beautiful Okavango Delta in Botswana.  He is blessed by the riches of his father's gifts and the knowledge of passed down by generations.

We chatted comfortably about the flowers and fauna as I clicked away. I was fascinated to learn about different plants some of which were medicinal - for example one of the roots of a water plant was used when one has swollen glands, while another leaf from the devils claw flower when rubbed together in your hands along with a few drops of water creates a natural soap.  GB quickly realized that I was content to spend our time gliding slowly through the Delta and he was happy to stop and go, allowing me the luxury to get lost in the moment, photographing the smallest detail along our route.

We did not go far in our two hour journey as the crow flies but we traveled to the magical land of Botswana's Okavango Delta and into the journey of our spirits colliding with conversations about our families and our interests and education. I learned so much from GB this morning and I hope he took back to his heart a piece of mine. Africa continues to enchant me with its natural beauty, the physical beauty of Mother Nature's brush and the spiritual beauty of the people who like onions once peeled back reveal a complexity of many layers.